(Credit: Howard Wise)
Starting from the southern tip at Venice Boulevard, we head northwest toward the beach.
Navigating: Abbot Kinney
There’s a Pinkberry, but don’t hold it against the bohos
By Jiyeon Yoo, Metromix, and Julianne Gorman, Special to Metromix
July 2, 2008Starting from the southern tip at Venice Boulevard, we head northwest toward the beach.
Wabi-Sabi Sushi & Asian Cuisine
1637 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice310-314-2229
Reviews of the sushi tend to range from really great to just all right—but what consistently rocks is the dessert. (Go figure.) Like many of the entrée selections, sweets are fusion studies, such as angel food cake with azuki and Chambord cream, or the hands-down crowd favorite, banana served three ways: as ice cream, fried tempura-style and stuffed in a filo triangle. With several sectioned-off areas, the dining room is unexpectedly large—all the better to hold the teeming crowd at happy hour.
Capri
1616 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice310-392-8777
Whether you’re a lover or a detractor—and Capri seems to get a fair share of both—the crisp, all-white dining room is undeniably one of the loveliest spots in Venice. Renditions of spaghetti alla checca and tuna with French lentils are more Italiana by way of California than via Mediterranean isle. But food may hardly be the point in the romantic, church-mouse-quiet setting. Nightly attendance tends to be sparse; don’t be too surprised to get most of the room to yourself.
The Brig
1515 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice310-399-7537
The retro illustration of a boxer in briefs (ha!) used to look over the boulevard’s most popular dive bar, sawdust and all. The dude is still there—as well as the optical-illusion-inducing mural on the side wall—but a recent renovation gutted out the old to bring in the poppy, futuristic angles of any generic Hollywood club. The new space is still packed to the gills, just with a different batch of kids and industry types, while old-timers look on and grumble. There goes the neighborhood.
Shima
1432 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice310-314-0882
With spare lines set in an avant-garde loft setting, Shima would be the postmodern beatnik if sushi restaurants had personality types. The food is hardly traditional either—sushi made with brown rice has garnered a particularly faithful following. The kitchen also makes its own tofu, which reduces carbon footprint, thank you very much. Without a discernible sign, the place coyly fails to announce itself. Dining here is a quiet affair—Zen even—but if you’re looking for more peace and quiet, request a table on the mezzanine level.
Pinkberry
1410 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice310-399-3100
So many fakers and many more haters, but L.A.'s originating phenomenon is undeniable. More tart than traditional American fro-yo, the unassuming confection doesn't seem to make much of a first impression. Careful, that's how the addiction starts. No matter the location, the decor is modish Philippe Starck and Le Klint from Design Within Reach; the seating tight; and queuing up a certainty.
Abbot's Pizza
1407 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice310-396-7334
It’s SRO in this hole in the wall, which is packed nightly with hipsters hankering for pizza by the slice. (No, that’s not meant to be redundant.) The signature crust is actually bagel dough, baked to a golden crunch, and it manages to surprise—if not satisfy—East Coast snobs. But true to L.A. form, the pizzeria offers gourmet toppings such as goat cheese, Portobello mushrooms, and tequila-lime chicken. There’s even a “salad pie” with lettuce, tomato, cheese and house dressing.
Abbot's Habit
1401 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice323-512-5278
As the boulevard gets scrubbed down, this boho stomping ground endures with the usual admixture of surfers, social anarchists and perennial screenwriters, who all linger over the extra-strength coffee. The menu is standard stuff with sandwiches and breakfast pastries, so nothing can go terribly awry. Hang out inside amid displays from local artists, or snag a seat along the sidewalk with other pet lovers (even the occasional dude-with-parrot).
Tortilla Grill
1357 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice310-581-9953
The name sounds like it’d be cheesy, or a chain, or a cheesy chain, but Tortilla Grill is Abbot Kinney’s resident Mexican joint—and it’s consistently hopping. The tiny space overcompensates with a huge menu that’s only outdone by the massive, double-fisting portions. Carne asada purists may frown, but a neighborhood begging for a taco truck can’t be choosy. Besides, delicious offerings of agua fresca, horchata and “therapeutic juice drinks” quench just about everyone’s thirst.
Hal's Bar & Grill
1349 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Los Angeles310-396-3105
Opened in 1987, Hal’s is the quintessential classy neighborhood joint. The dining room, featuring work from local artists, is huge and anchored by an impressive 40-foot wood and stainless steel bar, so there’s always room (and a martini) for you somewhere. Between jazz nights Sunday and Monday and the after-hours mob, the din is incessant, even intoxicating (for those into sensory deprivation). The food is California-inspired and fairly respectable, but the praiseworthy bread basket and bread pudding dessert will begin and end your meal with a carbo-loaded bang.
Roosterfish
1302 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice310-392-2123
For 25 years, Roosterfish has been an institution on the gay scene, due in no small part to the Sunday barbecue tradition on the back patio and to the bathroom ceiling, which is laden with photos. (Ahem, use your imagination.) If you want to pass for a regular, learn "At the Roosterfish," an anthem written expressly for the bar.
Stroh's Gourmet
1239 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice310-450-5119
This arty corner shop is part gourmet market, part deli—the kind of place to pick up breakfast or picnic nibbles for lounging around with no place to go. The counter menu is small, but just about everything is tasty: The Early Riser (bacon, eggs and cheese on croissant) is a real eye-opener as sandwich revelations go. There’s also a fine ever-rotating selection of cheeses, both domestic and imported. For beverage junkies, Stroh’s stocks all kinds of unusual soda and water brands from around the world.
Jin Patisserie
1202 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice310-399-8801
Tucked behind an unassuming wood-paneled gate, Jin Patisserie's soothing garden is a haven for the local leisure class and for Westside-phobics willing to brave a little sun. Flawlessly brewed tea service (with finger sandwiches to boot) is the hallmark of the sparse menu, but proprietor Kristy Choo's true artistry is expressed in couture-worthy confections and pastries. You haven’t lived until you’ve sampled her chocolate or caramel with the perfect balancing touch of sea salt.
The Otheroom
1201 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice310-396-6230
There’s the original the Room in Soho, Anotheroom in Tribeca and two more offshoots in other parts of the country, but this room is the only branch that has ventured west of the Mississippi. The vibe is, say it with us, “laid back”—locals often bring in their gigantic dogs, and no one seems to bat an eye. It’s wine and beer only, which keeps things civilized in the packed house. There’s no food either, but the barkeep will gladly hand you a delivery menu from nearby eateries. Get there early and grab a window seat—and relish in the jealous looks from passersby.
Glencrest Bar-B-Que Restaurant
1146 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice310-399-9641
This humble family operation has been around for decades—and looks as grungy as ever, eschewing the face-lifts that have taken over the rest of Abbot Kinney. Prices too have resisted inflation: It still offers one of the city’s cheapest rib dinners. Loyalists, for those reasons alone, fly to its defense, although even they might admit that more consistent hours and better ’cue can be found at Baby Blues (just over on Lincoln Boulevard). But if smoke-laced meat is what you’re after, Glencrest grills a mean burger.
3 Square Cafe + Bakery
1121 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice310-399-6504
Hans Rockenwagner has been a Westside fixture since the heyday of Chinese chicken salad and quiche Lorraine. After closing his longstanding SaMo namesake, Rockenwagner decamped to Venice and opened 3 Square, outfitting the chic, modern space with his own design pieces. (He’s also a self-taught carpenter.) The cuisine is Austrian for the most part, which means pale-hued dishes dusted with bread crumbs and laden with cream. Of course, his signature pretzel burger also found its way to the new A.K. digs.
Lilly's French Cafe and Wine Bar
1031 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice310-314-0004
Lilly’s is classic French—so expect textbook renditions of escargot, duck a l’orange and a rarely seen (at least in these parts) ile flottante, a dessert of meringue floating in a pool of crème anglaise. The service is leisurely at best, but the idle pace doesn’t seem so bad, especially in the inviting, lit-just-so patio. But if you’d rather sit inside in the vibrant bistro setting, your eyes do not deceive you: That is Snoopy staring out from the abstract montage on the walls.
Meditrina Cafe
1029 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice310-396-5000
A casual neighborhood cafe with a lock on charm, the salad-and-sandwich menu is gourmet in preparation without the side of attitude. The affable owner usually works the room, chatting with regulars and zeroing in on their culinary preferences. Selections are rounded out with burgers, pasta entrees, a slew of breakfast dishes and free Wi-Fi—so one can eat here morning, noon and night, which is absolutely the point. And don’t think about leaving without a scoop of gelato.
Primitivo Wine Bistro
1025 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice310-396-5353
Abbot Kinney is just a lively wine bar away from the chic bohemia of the Left Bank, if Primitivo has anything to say about it. The intimate, softly lit quarters gets super-cozy indeed, especially during the happy hour push. Wine selections are categorized according to Old World and New World labels (how very Continental), with equal attention toward the deliciously executed array of Mediterranean nibbles. Reservations are accepted—which foodies will appreciate as much as they will the prix fixe lunch option.
Joe's Restaurant
1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice310-399-5811
It’d be haute dining if Joe’s weren’t so unfussy and approachable. The menu evolves through the seasons and represents California cuisine at its best: farm-to-table ingredients prepared with formal French techniques and purposeful Asian and Mediterranean notes. Lamb with sunchokes and spiced yogurt, minor beef with blackberry gastrique, shrimp with saffron risotto and toasted pistachios: Such classic dishes are perennially available on the more affordable lunch menu. The breezy room—or even breezier patio—is one of the most grown-up places for weekend brunch. And if none of that is convincing enough, Joe’s was recently awarded a rare-for-L.A. Michelin star.
Axe
1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice310-664-9787
Pronounced more like a sneeze than a weapon, "Ah-chay" refers to a Yoruba greeting that means to "go with the power of the gods and goddesses." The serene, minimalist space aspires to divinity through organic, seasonal products from local farmers. Wine and beer are also sourced from micro-producers. The eclectic menu borrows globally, incorporating such items as Korean-inspired scallion pancakes, Moroccan-spiced lamb couscous, and Persian sabzi into the repertoire of salads, soups and free-range chicken.
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